Coastal Processes: Erosion, Transport and Deposition

Remember, there are 3 main processes that cause a coastline to change:
1. Erosion
2. Transport
3. Deposition.

There are number of factors which affect each of these processes - we are going to start by exploring erosion processes and the factors that can affect the amount of erosion that may take place along a coastline.

COASTAL EROSION

Erosion Processes:
Erosion is the wearing away of rocks, at the coast there are 6 main types of erosion processes in action (see animations here):

1. ABRASION (this is also known as corrasion) - this is where rock fragments are hurled at cliffs by breaking waves, gradually scraping away at the cliff face;

2. HYDRAULIC ACTION - as waves break against the cliff face, the pressure of the breaking wave can compress air in cracks. This compressed air gradually forces open the crack in the rock - as this process continues, the rock becomes increasingly weakened.

3. SOLUTION (this is also known as corrosion) - this occurs where the salt water is able to dissolve some of the chemicals in rocks - for example, limestone cliffs are gradually weakened as the salt water dissolves the calcium carbonate in the limestone.

4. SCOURING - this occurs at the base of the cliff as the waves break and swirl around, gradually removing loose rock.

5. ATTRITION - this is where rock fragments carried by the waves hit against each other and gradually wear down to form sand and silt

6. WAVE POUNDING - the sheer force of waves hitting against the cliff face

These processes of erosion form a series of distinctive landforms at the coast.

Rates of Coastal Erosion

So what are the factors that determine how much erosion can take place at the coast?

1. The Resistance of the Rocks - e.g. limestone, chalk and granite are resistant rocks (often forming cliffs and headlands) and erode relatively slowly, whilst less resistant rocks such as clay are easily eroded.

2. The Strength of the waves - affected by the wind strength and duration and its fetch

3. The shape of the coastline (which is dependent on its geology) - on concordant coastlines, rocks are parallel to the wave front and therefore rates of erosion are similar along the coastline. On discordant coastlines, differential erosion may occur, where bands of hard and soft rock outcrop at right angles to the sea. Consequently headlands and bays form along discordant coastlines and whilst headlands remain exposed to the force of the waves, bays are sheltered.

Click on the diagram below for a summary of factors affecting coastal erosion




COASTAL TRANSPORT

The second process operating at the coast is transport. Material eroded by the sea is carried within the water in a number of ways, minerals dissolved from rocks are carried in solution, whilst small rock fragments, light enough to be held within the water, float in suspension. The largest rock fragments which are too heavy to be picked up by the waves, are transported by the process of traction, this is where they roll along the bed when the waves pick up enough energy. Finally, medium sized rock particles, which cannot be carried by the waves all the time, are moved by saltation. This is where during times of higher wave energy the particles are picked up and then dropped again as the wave looses its energy.

The main form of transport operating at the coast is that of LONGSHORE DRIFT.

Longshore drift is the process by which sand and pebbles are moved along a beach by the movement of the waves.



COASTAL DEPOSITION

Material is moved up the beach by the swash at an angle which is controlled by the prevailing wind. The backwash then carries material back down the beach at right angles to the coastline under the influence of gravity. Gradually the material is moved along the coastline, its direction being controlled by the prevailing wind direction.

The final process operating at the coast is that of deposition - this is where material that is too heavy to be transported any more is left behind, building up the beach. Due to the importance of energy in transporting sand and shingle, it is the largest material that is deposited first. A number of distinctive features may form due to coastal deposition.

Follow up links:
Animations of Coastal Erosion Processes (BBC Bitesize)
Transport and Deposition (BBC Bitesize)

Key Terms Check:
Erosion - the wearing away and removal of material
Deposition - the dropping of material
Abrasion - the wearing of rock due to rock fragments being hurled against cliffs
Attrition - the breakdown of rocks as they hit against each other
Hydraulic Action - the force of waves causing rocks to split apart as waves compress air in cracks in the rocks
Wave Pounding - sheer force of water hitting rocks
Solution - where minerals in rocks are dissolved by the action of sea water
Scouring - occurs where water and broken rock fragments swirl around at the base of cliffs gradually wearing rock away.
Longshore Drift - the movement of material along a coastline

Podcast: Coastal Processes
You can listen to a podcast of this post below - to download a copy to listen to on your .mp3 player click here.

Upper Course of the River: Waterfalls

An other feature found in the upper course of a river, where vertical erosion is dominant, is a waterfall. The highest waterfall in the world is the Angel Falls in Venezuela (see picture right) which have a drop of 979m. Other particularly famous examples include Niagara Falls (North America), the Victoria Falls (on the Zambia / Zimbabwe border) and the Iguazu Falls (South America).



Although much smaller in scale, there are many waterfalls in the upper course of UK rivers (e.g. Thornton Falls, Yorkshire - above), but how do they form?




The formation of Waterfalls

1.Waterfalls are found in the upper course of a river. They usually occur where a band of hard rock lies next to soft rock. They may often start as rapids.

2. As the river passes over the hard rock, the soft rock below is eroded (worn away) more quickly than the hard rock leaving the hard rock elevated above the stream bed below.

3. The 'step' in the river bed continues to develop as the river flows over the hard rock step (Cap Rock) as a vertical drop.

4. The drop gets steeper as the river erodes the soft rock beneath by processes such as abrasion and hydraulic action. A plunge pool forms at the base of the waterfall.

5. This erosion gradually undercuts the hard rock and the plunge pool gets bigger due to further hydraulic action and abrasion.Eventually the hard cap rock is unsupported and collapses. The rocks that fall into the plunge pool will continue to enlarge it by abrasion as they are swirled around. A steep sided valley known as a gorge is left behind and as the process continues the waterfall gradually retreats upstream.

Visualising Waterfall Formation:

The labelled diagram of a cross section through a waterfall below, shows the formation process (click on diagram for a larger version).
There are also number of excellent animations on the internet which can help you visualise how a waterfall forms. Try out the following:

1. A good step by step animation of waterfall formation showing all the main stages involved (Wycombe High School)
2. This simple but excellent animation showing an aerial view of waterfall formation clearly shows the development of a gorge as the waterfall retreats upstream! (Cleonet)
3. An animation of waterfall formation from a different 3-dimensional perspective. Look carefully at how the plunge pool is enlarged during the formation process. (Classzone)

Key Term Check:

• Cap Rock - layer of hard resistant rock forming the 'step' over which the 'falls' occur in a waterfall.


• Waterfall - a cascade of water over a hard rock step in the upper course of a river


• Plunge Pool - a deep pool beneath


• Gorge - a steep sided valley left behind as a waterfall retreats upstream


• Abrasion - where rocks and boulders scrape away at the river bed and banks


• Hydraulic Action - where the force of water compresses air in cracks resulting in mini-explosions as the increased pressure in the cracks is then released.